In and Around Manorbier
Posted by Paul Allyn Thu, 30 Mar 2006 15:10:00 GMT
Manorbier is a nice place to stay. It’s a short walk up from the beach, past the base of Manorbier Castle. When we rolled – that is, strolled – into Manorbier it was close to closing time for the castle and up hill the whole way. We didn’t visit. As it was our second full day of walking and hadn’t quite got our land legs used to the idea of continual motion for several hours we were ready for a bit of a sit down and a pint.
- The beer is not warm, it is “basement cool.” This is different from the U.S. insistence on serving beer freezing cold (so you can’t taste it, I expect).
- U.S. beer drinkers would consider beer in the British Isles “flat.”
- If you insist on “bubbly,” ask for lager.
- If you want something cold and effervesant, order cider. We like Strongbow, but there are usually a couple of options. Try them.
- Cider has the additional advantage of, if your feet and knees are sore from walking all day, a pint of cider will cause the cessation of feeling from the knees down. Wonderful!
- Drinks and food are ordered at the bar. Take the drinks with you, the food will be delivered.
- Pub Rule of Thumb: if there are one or two pubs in town, both are good. If three or more, you will never find the good one. I don’t know why this rule seems to be true, it’s counterintuituve. Still, every time we have been in a town with three or more pubs, we have always been disappointed, except for when we bump into someone met along the trail and we buy drinks for each other.
As we walked up into Manorbier there was a roundabout. To the right a restaurant or pub. The men going in and out were wearing jackets and ties. Perhaps not the place for us this trip. A little bit further up the road was another pub that looked more inviting to walkers and in we went.
Across from the pub and a bit up the road was the not unfamiliar site of “boot pots.” I don’t know what people really call them, but we see them at least once per trip. If you’ve got a beloved, old pair of boots that no longer serve the purpose of keeping you dry and comfortable – here’s the solution!
When we started out the next morning it was a bit overcast, but no drizzle. Being an Episcopal priest we had to stop by the local church, St. James. Services are…- 1st Sunday: Evensong, 6PM
- 2nd & 4th Sundays: Holy Eucharist, 11:15AM
- 3rd Sunday: Family Service, 11:15AM
The church itself dates from the 12th century and of Norman architecture. It’s a beauty. It is said, “the foundations are ancient and unknown.” (Click here for more information) The church is located across from the Manorbier Castle – the above picture was taken from the church yard. No one was about when we visited so we dropped a couple of pounds into the donation box and after a good look about we were back on the trail.

One of the delights of St. James for me was this plaque containing the names of all the rectors and vicars from 1251 to 1963, the oldest being Master Richard. I love old churches! Those that built them, built them for the ages, not like the monstrosities that were built in the U.S. in the 1950’s and 60’s. Actually, they still seem to be in fashion. In a few hundred years, I wonder how many of the churches in the U.S. will be considered “wonderful.” Sigh.
On down the trail to Bosherston…
God give you joy
Fr. Paul
